Major Features of the Western Desert

^{The Western
Desert (Libyan Desert) is about two-thirds of Egypt's land surface (262,800
sq.mi. [680,651 sq.km.]). The highest point is Mount Babayn (3,622 ft. [1,104
m.]) on the al-Jilf al-Kabir Plateau (3,300 ft. [1,006 m.]) in the south-west.
Except for the oases the population is made up of small groups of nomadic and
semi-nomadic herdsmen. The majority of the people (mainly Awlad 'Ali) have settled
along the coast and rely on herding, agriculture, fishing and handicrafts for
a living. Those who live in the oases are ethnically and culturally distinct,
such as the people of Siwa. The Al Wadi al Jadid
('New Valley') area is the south-west of Egypt corresponding with the Governorate
of the same name. (1)}

^{The
oases vary in size and are often
groups of small oases which are close together. The water supply is from deep
wells (often artesian) which are drilled to increase the arable land that can
be cultivated. The water source can be up to 500 mi. (800 km.) away and it travels
through the sandstone aquifers. Intensive irrigation has lowered the water table
and is causing the salination and infertility of the soil. Ideas to combat this
have been suggested, including taking water from Lake Nasser.}

^{The
oases produce a tremendous variety
of crops such as cotton, cereals, rice, beans, grapes, figs, olives, dates,
citrus fruits, and sugarcane. Siwa alone has 300,000 date palms and 70,000 olive
trees. The livestock kept is mainly goats, sheep and camels. In some places
there is massive land reclamation and the Government is selling off parcels
of land for intensive crops production. Examples of this are such as: in the
early 1970s about 9,900 acres (4,000 hectares) of land was reclaimed at}^{Al-Faiyum;
and in the last five years cultivated land at Farafra increased
from 3,000 to 22,000 acres (1,214 to 8,903 hectares).}

^{Many
of the oases have industries based on the natural resources found there. These
are minerals such as sodium chloride, sulphur, magnesium, phosphate, and iron-ore.
The}^{Farafra
Oasis' population has increased from 5,000 to 14,000 since 1995.}

^{The
oases are what remains of a prehistoric
savannah. They are a historical catalogue of Egypt with buildings and ruins
from the Pharaohs, Persians, Romans, Copts and a long Muslim association. Their
secrets are still being uncovered, such as the tomb of a 26th. Dynasty (c. 525
B.C.) Provincial Ruler which has been found at}^{Bahereya.
Oases, as they were known, are disappearing as paved roads (which follow the
old caravan routes), electricity, TV and intensive farming encroach. The original
inhabitants are losing their traditional farming-irrigation methods, customs,
crafts and architecture.}

^{Al-Faiyum
is in the Faiyum Depression 70 mi. (103 km.) south-west of Cairo. It occupies
the bed of the ancient Lake Moeris, which evaporated, and covers an area of
700 sq.mi. (1,800 sq.km.) at 150 ft. (45 m.) below sea level.}^{Water
comes from the Nile through the Bahr Yussuf ( Joseph's Canal - 17th.
c. [also for irrigation]). There are natural springs (Al-Siliyin, Al-Sha'ir,
Biahmu and Al-Mandarah) and Lake Qarun (16 ft. to 39 ft. [5 m. to 12 m.] deep,
85 sq.mi. [220 sq.km.]) with saltwater fish and a commercial-fishing industry.}

^{Bahereya
is 250 mi. (402 km.) from Cairo,
224 mi. (360 km.) south-west of Giza and 112 mi. (180 km.) west of Asyut.}^{Other
distances: Kharga 379 mi. (610 km.), Dakhla 255 mi. (410 km.), Farafra
112 mi. (180 km.), Siwa 218 mi. (350 km.). It has 268 mineral and sulphur springs.}

^Dakhla's^{capital is Mut which is 459 mi. (739 km.) from Cairo. Other
distances: Kharga 124 mi. (200 km.), Farafra 143 mi. (230 km.), Bahereya
255 mi. (410 km.), Siwa 472 mi. (760 km.). Water
comes from wells, Mut Wells (up to 109Ąf. [43ĄC.] and 4,016 ft. [1,224 m.] deep),
Ayn al-Qasr Wells (up to 113Ąf. [45ĄC.]).}

^{Farafra
is 362 mi. (582 km.) from Cairo, 267 mi. (430 km.) from Kharaga, 143 mi. (230
km.) north-west of Dakhla and 112 mi. (180 km.) north of Bahereya, 329 mi. (530
km.) from Siwa.}

^{Kharga
is in a depression 112 ft. (34 m.) above sea level 374 mi. (602 km.) from Cairo,
144 mi. (232 km.) south of Asyut.}^{Other
distances: Dakhla 124 mi. (200 km.), Farafra 267 mi. (430 km.), Bahereya
379 mi. (610 km.), Siwa 596 mi. (960 km.). Paris Oasis
(Baris) is part of Kharga and is 56 mi. (90 km.)
south. Water comes from springs and wells (Bulaq
Wells, Jenah Well, Nasser Wells).}

^{Siwa
is 467 mi. (752 km.) west from
Cairo, 190 mi. (306 km.) south of Marsá Matruh.}^{Other
distances: Kharga 596 mi. (960 km.), Dakhla 472 mi. (760 km.), Farafra
329 mi. (530 km.), Bahereya 218 mi. (350 km.). It is 59 ft. (18 m.) below sea
level; 51 mi. (82 km.) long; and between 1.25 and 12.5 mi. (2 and 20 km.) wide.
Siwa itself is 6 mi. (10 km) long by 4-5 mi. (6-8 km) wide. 10 mi. (16 km.)
north-east is the az-Zaytun (Zeitun) Oasis,
and to the west a 50 mi. (80 km.) long chain of oases and salty pools. The road
from Marsá Matruh was built in 1986. Water
comes from 200 natural springs and 3 salt lakes (Maraqi, Siwa and Zaytun). Siwa
is the largest and most populous oasis 7,299 (1986), 15,000 (2000) in the main
settlement of Shali at centre of the oasis, with two old walled settlements
at Siwa and Aghurmi.}

^{The
Qattâra Depression is uninhabited and the eastern part is 35 mi.
(56 km.) south of El Alamein. It is about 7,500 sq.mi. (19,500 sq.km.); 170
mi. (275 km.) long by 70m. (110 km.) wide; and is 436 ft. (133 m.) below sea
level. Water is in the form of salt lakes and marshes
created by precipitation, annual rainfall 2 in. (50 mm.). Montgomery stopped
Rommel's final advance here in July, 1942, at the Battle of El Alamein.}

Foot Notes

(1) See map in the last issue, no. 353, on page 5, showing the Al Wadi al Jadid ('New Valley') Governorate. Until 1958 the area was known as the 'Southern Desert' (as-Sahra` al-Janubiyah). 'The New Valley Project' was started by the Government in the 1960s with the idea of developing the oases' potential and Al-Kharijah is the capital. In the 1970s experiments in new crop varieties were undertaken. Return

(2) Oases included within the Al Wadi al Jadid (Al-Gadeed) ('New Valley') area. Return

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